A Tradition Nearly Etched in Stone

For three-quarters of a century, there have been celebrations on the steps of one of the most iconic castles in the world. Not to remember any specific battle or foe but simply existing to showcase what is possible when a group of individuals harness the power of national pride. Of course I am talking about the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.

Just a quick note before we get on our way: this post has been written and edited in three different countries and has taken entirely too long to be published; mostly because I feel as though I am not able to adequately describe this evening no matter how hard I may try.

Simply put, the event was spectacular. A beautiful and thought provoking blend of music, story telling and visuals that would ensnare the attention and emotion of the entire audience and held it until the finale of fireworks lit up the dark Scottish sky. Luckily, Randi and I were able to secure a specialty ticket that included a dining experience. We would be dining at the iconic Contini Cannonball House, and the food was the perfect introduction to our first viewing of the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo (REMT).

Our day had started almost twelve hours before we even thought about getting ready for REMT. A day that will be chronicled later on when we would finally get around to discussing the length of our Azamara Cruise around Scotland (So please stay tuned for a full post on the events of the day). After a full day of walking around Edinburgh, during the ever famous Fringe festival, we started our walk up the historic cobbled streets. We admired the many stores, buskers, and artists that line our streets until we reached our hosts for the evening. The two of us congregated in front of the restaurant as the owner welcomed us and gave us a brief history of the building before ushering us inside. The building had served as living quarters, storage, and even a school during the years and it became obvious as we walked up the stairs and gazed upon the original tiling, old wooden school seats, benches and desks. Pictures, pages and old REMT posters covered the rich green walls of the hallways and deeply added to the general vibe and aesthetic of this iconic restaurant.

The Dinner:

Inside the intimate dining room we found our assigned table and shortly after, bread was served. I mean this as a sincere note: it was some of the best bread I have eaten in a long time. Perfectly warm, a lightly floured crust and soft, delicate but yeasty interior served with a creamy whipped butter that was flaked with seaweed that added a salty and almost herbal note.

The first course was a smoked trout with peas and shaved fennel. Delightfully delicate yet packed with flavor, although, if I'm being nit picky, personally I feel like it could have benefited from a touch of acid. Next, came perfectly cooked venison, smoked potatoes and stewed mushrooms that paired beautifully with our Pinot Noir. Lastly, we had a lemon cream, with a berry compote. It was perfectly tangy, sweet and the perfect end for the meal.

As the sky darkened and night approached outside, the dinner wrapped up and we all tucked into our final servings of cheese and whisky. As part of our package we were joined by two wonderful violinists who would later be preforming in the REMT. The pair were supremely talented and greatly entertaining as they regaled the room with a few songs to prepare us for the shear amount of talent that would be on display for us in a matter of time. Music was soon followed with applause, and then, finally It was time to enjoy the short walk to the Castle.

The Show:

Once we lined up behind our guide, they ushered us through the growing swell of attendees that flowed up the street and spilled into the esplanade of the Edinburgh Castle. Walking under the grand stands that had been erected, it felt like we were walking into a different world; one filled with excited chatter, merriment and thousands of people basking in the glow of a flame framed facade of an ancient and impossible Castle.

Here's where I will do a bit of a disservice to the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo; I could take you through every act, I could hold your hand and guide you through the night with its hustle and bustle, but I won't do that. Why? Simply because I don't know if I would be able to do it justice (Plus you can now view it yourself on YouTube). Instead, I will do my best to describe the raw emotion that flowed through the audience, the sense of wonder and boundless pride that was created in front of us in real time. Perhaps I am still in a state of bliss and skimming over any apparent mistakes or hiccups that may have altered the experience; but I believe that the atmosphere was something out of a movie and more layered that I can express. The air was thick with anticipation until the first notes of music floated out into the courtyard.

An imposing sight of tartan clad performers marching in front of the castle walls felt like we had been transported hundreds of years into the past. I couldn't escape this sense of mysticism and wonder as an impressive battalion marched into the courtyard, their companding presence and sound filled the atmosphere and it just felt right. Randi and I had been to Scotland five or six times up until this point, and as much as we had previously loved the country and it's culture; it all felt new. We carried our admiration as the scenes and sounds changed, from the beauty and grace on display from the Ukrainian Naval Orchestra to the stunning concentration and synchronicity from the United States Air Force. Every breath I drew was kept in time with the beating drums of the Top Secret Drum Corps. The story and emotional rollercoaster that we were taken on with the help of the lone piper, and the emergence of a younger piper who would go on to take up the mantle into the future. Every twist and turn revealed a deeper layer and added to the tapestry to the Military Tattoo. A special moment in the night was when they honored a women in the audience as being a local hero. There had been a competition earlier where REMT had tried to identify individuals who had served their community and created a better environment through their efforts. This meaningful moment allowed an entire audience to appreciate a woman for her continued love and support for the critically ill in her community; often knitting clothing or orchestrating donation drives so that those in need have essentials as they battle illness. Every evening I believe the REMT honored a local hero, but it was so heart warming to be able to voice our support and compassion for such a strong and caring woman. A short while later, the choir of "Sing in the City" filled the aisles throughout the stands to sing alongside the bands. This inclusion of voices that weren't manipulated in any way was absolutely wonderful; there were no microphones, no altering or editing of their voices, no production aside from these members being scattered and not singing to the audience, but rather singing in the audience brought so many around me to tears. As you may have noticed; a complete lack of photos from this portion. Randi and I were so enthralled with their performance that we didn't film or photograph any of it.

The show began to wrap up and we celebrated a video montage of the heroes of Scotland, England and even heroes around the world. An outpouring of love and respect filled the space, and it seemed as if our applause and cheers launched the Fireworks that would end our night.

Was it worth it? I believe that I speak for both of us when I say that it was 100% worth it.

How did it make us feel? I will admit that at two moments in the night I was brought to tears. the overwhelming sense of being involved in something so much bigger than yourself. Randi and I could write a book on this evening, and yet I am scratching my head as to how I end this post. Obviously after the Tattoo ended we stood shoulder to shoulder with everyone else in the stands to cheer; we filtered down and out of the castle grounds, seemingly floating through air until we arrived at the trams and were whisked away back to our ship for the night. Whether or not I am remembering this experience as a fantasy of what it was, I know that there will always be a space in my heart and memories for the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo.